Mel. And la vie ***: The Little Sky in Osnabrück with 50 Shades of Olive Oil from Spain.
Osnabrück. For the first time I not only crashed through the station in an ICE, but actually got out. One thing that I can recommend to everyone without reservation, because Osnabrück has really delightful corners that want to be discovered. Today, sightseeing is not on the agenda for me, but something very special: I will eat in a 3-star restaurant for the first time in my life. Hach!
A taxi takes me from the train station to the old town until just before the door of la vie. Since 2006, it has been run by top chef Thomas Bühner and restaurant manager Thayarni Kanagaratnam and boasts a remarkable list of awards: 3 Michelin stars, 19 points in Gault Milau, 5 of 5 F's in gourmet, 10 of 10 pans in Gusto and 5 out of 5 stars at Varta were awarded the la vie . Respect.
I am very excited as I look up at the façade of this 18th century neoclassical building. What will await me here today in this mecca for gourmets?
I briefly talk to the universe and urge that not only oysters, caviar and inauspicious things from the sea on my plates frolicking. I'm kind of sensitive. I can not eat that.
I quickly console myself: If all else fails, I can - of course very ladylike - still a lot of bread with olive oil and white wine displaced. Today's menu is all about Spanish olive oil.
Thomas Bühner is ambassador for olive oil from Spain and the la vie is one of 20 top restaurants involved in the project Olive oils from Spain - The Germany tour participate. The chefs, each in his own style and environment, were inspired by olive oil and composed special dishes. I was invited by the merger Olive Oil from Spain to experience the menu of Thomas Bühner today.
And who now thinks that the whole thing could somehow be a bit boring (olive oil bottle on and up to the food), will be delighted to learn that there are over 260 different varieties of olives. Each variety and the assortments of different varieties produce olive oils with very different flavors and tastes. That sounds more like a 3-star kitchen again.
So, let's go!
Me and my little black little bunny open the glass door and enter the room in dark wood tones Reception area of la vie . To the left, dark leather armchairs wait for visitors in the lounge area. On the right, behind a pane of glass, I see a huge wine and humidor cabinet. And there comes already a young man in a dark suit, greets me very nice and polite, takes off my coat and I bugsiert me one of the dark leather chairs. Apparently, I'm the first of today's guests. With a refreshment (coffee or champagne) offered and I decide for once reasonably reasonable for a cappuccino.For this, several members of the service appear and announce a small selection of Amuse bouche. Unfortunately, I can no longer remember the relatively long and fantastic-sounding list of the various components - I am completely engrossed in the consideration of the three small bowls and plates.
Especially the small deep fried and chocolate algae in some of the goose and a jelly has done to me. It's tiny, beautiful, and delicious.
Then comes my personal highlight: A service employee appears subtly on my left side and asks," May the lady possibly wish a handbag stand ". A handbag stand? I'm delighted! Although I own one of these Queen Lissy table hooks for expensive bags - but a whole stand is of course something completely different. Since today I have a huge truck tarpaulin bag from Friday (camera and accessories on board), the stand does not quite fulfill its sublime function - the bag is still on the ground because of the long handle and its size - but above Let's just take a look now.
The atmosphere around the table is very relaxed and relaxed and we chat about this and that - and of course about olive oil. The gentleman on my right is one of the jurors at the annual olive oil tasting of the gourmet and entertains us with his extensive background knowledge. He tells us that he tastes hundreds of varieties of olive oil similar to wine in order to judge the quality, taste and other criteria.
Olive oil is special because it is derived from a fruit and not from a seed becomes. In the case of Spanish olive oil one distinguishes these four main varieties, which are also used in the menu of Thomas Bühner:
Green olives, easy also in terms of bitterness. Balanced and sweet. With aromas of almond fruit and other fruits (artichoke, apple and tomato). Use recommended for chicken, fish, seafood, potatoes and vegetables. Also suitable for desserts.
The name derives from the shape of this olive fruit. It is a full-bodied, bitter and spicy olive oil with a slightly woody note. Especially recommended with red meat and vegetables.
Has a wide range of flavors. At first it is sweet, it smells of green grass and has a slightly bitter and slightly burning finish with a fine grinding of almonds. Highly recommended with lamb or pork, fish, seafood and some vegetables such as asparagus. Fits perfectly with rice.
A bitter and burning taste finds the perfect balance here.Thomas Bühner tells us later that the recipe actually came from another cook, but he liked it so much that he wanted to put it into practice. The melon is vacuumed, dried, re-vacuumed, smoked, giving it a great, almost ham-like texture and a tremendous aroma. The wild herbs and the Parmesan cream also cause small flavor explosions.
Gazpacho Beetroot, Oyster, Safranaal, Wild Herb
with Picual Olive Oil
2012 Silvaner Dry -350 NN, Odinstal/Pfalz
I love beetroot. And I even tried the oyster. Jawoll!
Warmth-cooked salmon with Fennel, Hojiblanca olive oil, trout caviar
2011 GURU, Wine & Soul/Douro
The big hitters in this dish were the super-miniature mini-mini olive oil croutons. Thomas Bühner gave us the trick later: The croutons are first very finely cut (what an incredible job!), Then dried and finally turned into olive oil. So the fresh, green taste of the oil is preserved and it crunches wonderfully with every bite.
A great wine. Please a year's supply of it to my home. Thank you.
Breton red mullet (round), Artichoke high 3 & mangetout
with arbequina olive oil 2010 blanc pallet, chateau simone/provence
Me and the fish - barbel are also rather difficult for me. I made full half of the tour here full of enjoyment. In the Dreifaltikeit of Artichoke you can get into it.
Turbot, 2 x broccoli and steamed noodles, Jabugo ham - also as a stock with Hojiblanca olive oil and broil Apanage Prestige, Pommery/Champagne
I love chickpeas! And I was amazed to find her on such a developed plate. Wonderful with the ham and turbot. Great also the very, very, very aromatic ham stock that was served as a shot.
In best Knipps society: The Four Magazine keeps every plate photographically.
Potato Olive Oil Foam with Pumpkin Curry Ice Cream with Arbequina Olive Oil and Broth Apanage Prestige, Pommery/Champagne
Gentle, spicy, creamy, melting - a short relaxation for the palate. We tasted different olive oils. It's amazing how distinct the differences are if you pay close attention to them. My darling: The spicy cornicabra.
Ibérico pork (Presa & chin), peppers potatoes, butter beans and pesto, tamarind
with cornicabra olive oil
2010 Nuits-Saint Georges, Domaine Forey/Burgundy
Meat. And what one. Perfectly cooked and unbeatable in combination with tamarind.Together with the fresh apple jelly a really good mating.
Sweet Snowball, Frozen Goat's Milk, Passion Fruit, Yuzucrème & Lemon Meringue
with Arbequina Olive Oil
2012 Rieslaner Auslese, Ellermann-Spiegel/Pfalz
In a "snowball" you think fast to this fried pastry from the Christmas market. This snowball, however, consists of a gossamer, silvery shimmering layer of sugar, which shatters at the first touch into 1000 graceful Spiltter. Inside is a neatly sprayed, two-tone cream. A little dessert miracle! We thought long and hard about how to make something so artistic and finally decided that these balls might be mouth-blown like glass. Oh yes: I love iced goat's milk - I did not know that before.
Finally, a small flood of chocolates and sweets:
The olive oil praline with a delicately creamy filling
The Spicy Buddha with 5 spices (at least)
I felt very comfortable in the la vie the food was very, very enjoyed. In between, I kept thinking that a little bit from heaven is in Osnabrück. The service was extremely attentive and friendly, the procedure formal but not tense or bitchy. The la vie is a place where you can relax and enjoy at a high level. Anyone looking for pompous or emphatically staged extravagance will not find it here. The dishes often have a down to earth component, are of exquisite quality and surprise with the combination of flavors and textures. The selection of wines to the dishes was very successful. My tip: The lunch menus on the weekend with an outstanding price-performance ratio.
Thomas Bühner came between the courses at the table and chatted entertaining from his professional practice, reported on what is important to him as a boss, that he sees the success of the la vie basically as the overall performance of his team, and that he can not understand how the most absurd rumors about starred restaurants are spread time and time again. "Trying on someone else's plate has never been a reason to get kicked out of the restaurant! At least not in la vie. I do not know who thinks this up. And why. "
Unfortunately, we have to set off to reach the train in time. With one of the restaurant's own, luxury limousines we are brought to the station. Just 3 stars to the end.
On the train, I'm thinking about what I can take from this deluxe meal in my local Winz kitchen. For example, the suggestion to use oils and especially olive oil not only as a means of frying or as an ingredient in salad dressing. Or not always to grab the same bottle in the supermarket, but to try different varieties and taste consciously. And sometimes special varieties (my favorite Cornicabra) to order at smaller factories on the Internet.It was an unforgettable experience. And I'll be back for sure.
la vie ***
Tel. +49 5 41 33 11 50
Tuesday to Saturday from 7 pm
Friday and Saturday also from 12 o'clock